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MAPS AND OTHER OVERSIZED PAPER ITEMS
Archives generally contain maps and plans produced by different techniques and on a variety of supports: tracing paper, oiled paper, other types of paper, paper lined with
cloth, coated linen, blueprints. They may be printed by engraving, lithography, photomechanical processes. Some of the paper supports might have been acidic and of bad quality to begin with. In many
cases, these oversized materials have been stored poorly for long periods. They have been damaged by environmental factors such as high heat and low humidity in winter, high humidity in summer, air
pollution, high light levels and they have also suffered from mechanical stress.
Some practices that cause mechanical stress include rolling in tight bundles, storing the bundles on end on the floor, piling maps in drawers without enclosing them in
individual folders, stuffing them into undersized and/or crowded drawers, removing maps from drawers without adequate rigid support, repeatedly folding and unfolding maps, and so on.
Signs of damage
Be on the lookout for signs of damage in your collections. Here are some, as listed by Margaret Holben Ellis in her book The Care of Prints and Drawings (Chapter 5):
Discoloration due to tape stains or adhesives, mat burn, bad framing (old wooden frame backings), fading, yellowing.
Mold stains, mold growth, tide lines & other water stains,
Brittleness, insect damage
Tape, paper clips, staples, pins
Cockling, tears, cracks, broken off pieces, edge tears
Any of the above conditions indicate that remedial action of some sort is needed. Until the object can be treated, it should be enclosed in a suitable folder or container and
protected from light and handling. Provide the most stable environmental conditions possible. This requires frequent monitoring, especially when the seasons change.
HANDLING LARGE PAPER ITEMS
When moving a piece of paper, pick it up by diagonally opposite corners. Allow the paper to sag down between your hands. This
method generally avoids denting or creasing the paper. If a piece is too large or too fragile to be picked up this way, slide it carefully
onto a rigid support such as mat board, Plexiglas, or a screen. Then two people can move the item on its tray onto a working surface. Don’t try to move several large objects at once, such as stacks of
maps or bundles of rolled drawings.
STORAGE OF FRAMED ART AND OTHER LARGE SIZE ITEMS
Make sure that all framed items really belong to the collection, and when possible de-accession those that are not pertinent, since they
take up a considerable amount of space. Materials should not be unframed unless there is appropriate flat storage space for them after they are out of the frame. This can be a very big undertaking.
All framed items should be stored vertically, either hanging on sliding storage systems or in padded frame racks.
Padded frame rack
A ready-made bin can be used, such as the kind used by framers to store mat board upright. Or one can be made with lumber that has
been sealed with polyurethane or acrylic paint. The sealant should be allowed to cure for at least two weeks, to prevent off-gassing once the bin is in use. The bottom of the bin should be several
inches off the floor, for air circulation and for protection against moisture. The bottom of each compartment should be padded with carpeting, Fomecor or other cushioning material to protect the
frames. A piece of cardboard or Fomecor should be placed between adjacent frames. It should be bigger than the frames. Store one to four pieces in each section, depending on size. Label each
compartment of the bin indicating what pieces are in each section. This simple method provides safe, upright storage as well as easy access to particular items.
SURFACE CLEANING LARGE ITEMS
The same general information applies as for small items; the work will take longer and be more awkward. Cover areas that don’t need
cleaning with acid-free blotter or a sheet of paper to prevent accidental damage. When working on the central areas of the piece, be especially careful not to damage the edges. For rolled items, the
first step is flattening. See below for instructions on unrolling documents. Place weights as needed and work on a small section at a time.
Don’t erase signatures, inventory numbers and other marks that might have information or artifactual value.
ROLLED DOCUMENTS
Documents which have been rolled tightly for decades can be very brittle and they generally want to stay rolled, like springs. When a
researcher attempts to unroll such a document, the edges may very well begin to rip; the tear will often proceed for quite a distance into
the roll. The map or plan can develop parallel cracks that get worse as it is flattened out. Unrolling is not an easy task and there is no one solution to all situations. A conservator can provide advice
and staff training to get the work started, especially if large quantities are involved, or if items are fragile.
The best time to unroll paper documents is during periods of higher humidity because the extra moisture makes paper much more
flexible. Make sure that there is room for these large items in flat file drawers or large boxes before starting an unrolling project.
STORAGE SOLUTIONS FOR ROLLED ITEMS
Flat files
If the rolls are thin enough, they can be stored loosely in one layer in flat file drawers. Do not crowd them, and don't force thick rolls
into a drawer that is too shallow. Make sure the rolls don't get caught in the back of the drawers. Ideally, each map or plan should be wrapped in acid free paper (no rubber bands or adhesive tape on
the outside, flat cotton twill tapes are OK). The wrapping should extend a few inches beyond the edges of the rolls for extra protection. Identifying information about the maps can be
transferred to the new wrapping by handwriting or with computer generated labels. If the latter option is chosen, select archival label stock.
Don't mix flat items and rolls in the same drawer, even if they go together. Use appropriate separation sheets to indicate where the different-shaped items are stored.
Roll storage containers
Another solution is to use roll storage containers. These are available in various configurations from archival suppliers. They
can be stored on deep shelving or upright in bins or boxes. Some roll storage bins have casters and can be moved around easily.
For additional support, large documents can be rolled around a rigid core first and then placed in a storage tube. If the document is
fragile, wrap it in acid-free tissue or bond paper, or in Mylar, before placing it in the tube. Very brittle maps or plans can be interleaved
with acid free tissue or bond paper. The interleaving material should be larger than the item it is protecting.
Blueprints and other large format architectural plans are often light sensitive. They will fade if not enclosed in light proof containers.
These can be roll storage boxes or tubes as described above, or archival folders of appropriate sizes for storage in flat files. If flat
files are not available, the folders can be put into oversize archival boxes. They should be placed on oversize shelving deep enough to support the boxes completely, to avoid sagging.
Different types of drawings and blueprints should be separated because some processes react chemically with each other.
Relaxing paper
Sometimes the decision is made to store a previously rolled item in a flat file. A document, map, or poster that has been rolled tightly for
years cannot all of a sudden be opened and made to lie flat witout damage. Unrolling and flattening must be gradual. If the item is brittle, a conservator should be consulted.
If the item is large, it will be a two-person job. Remove paper clips, staples, pins, and old, loose repair tapes. Don't pull off any tape that is still attached.
Open the piece gently as far as it will unroll easily, place a piece of blotter or bristol over the unrolled area and weight down with bricks
or books. Do not force the roll open. You may have to do it in several stages, progressively opening and placing weights on the unrolled portion. Let it relax a few days, then open it a bit more,
moving the weights farther out, and so on.
Once the item is totally unrolled, cover completely with acid-free blotters, and place boards and/or weights on top.
Let the document remain under weight for several days. It is ready for storage in oversize archival folders when it doesn't curl back spontaneously if left uncovered.
Some materials will always try to curl again and must be placed in storage folders that will keep them flat. A light weight, such as a
piece of museum board, can be placed on the folder to keep the item flat in the drawer.
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